Abu Dhabi: desert rose or just dust and rocks?

Fifty years ago, Abu Dhabi was not much more than empty desert punctuated only by the occasional palm tree. Bedouin tribes still roamed, sustaining themselves by harvesting dates, pearls and fish. Then oil was discovered and everything changed. Ten years later, the United Arab Emirates was born, forged from seven territories – called emirates – including Abu Dhabi and Dubai.

Contrary to what many still think, Abu Dhabi is actually the capital city of the UAE, not Dubai. In fact, mentioning that other city is a surefire way to upset the natives, such is the competitive nature between the two emirates.

Abu Dhabi corniche

Most tourists gather along the public beach along the corniche at weekends

Dubai was constructed at an unprecedented rate never before seen anywhere in the world. So awesome was the expansion that the emirate’s economy couldn’t sustain it. Abu Dhabi on the other hand, is being built at a substantially slower pace. Consequently, the city is not as developed as its Emirati adversary.

Wandering the streets there is little to suggest that Abu Dhabi is the richest city on Earth. It actually looks quite shabby, with many tower block exteriors exhibiting aging concrete and browning mirrored glass. But, most of the oil is here and so this is where the money is. So much so, that it recently had to come to the financial rescue of its rapidly expanding emirate neighbour. Add all this up and you have an almost adolescent-like rivalry.

The city of Abu Dhabi itself is an archipelago; it’s made up of a series of islands interconnected by fast-flowing eight and ten-lane freeways. There is no city centre as such, but the moment you drive onto Abu Dhabi Island the more familiar sights of a Middle East metropolis become visible. Most tourists and many residents gather along the public beach along the corniche at weekends. Located at the northwest end of the island, this popular stretch of sand has recently undergone a much-needed face-lift, as the only alternative is to pay some frankly extortionate fees for the privilege of using a private beach area belonging to one of the many hotel complexes.

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4 Responses to “Abu Dhabi: desert rose or just dust and rocks?”

  1. R. Paulson says:

    Yeah, OK, there might be more to do in Dubai…but it’s still more of the same. Anyone coming to the UAE for the very first time will be amazed at the quality and stunned at the standard of all the five-star hotels – the Beach Rotana, the Fairmont and the Shangri La, for example. And they are stunning. But…there’s just more of the same in Dubai. And that’s all there is to do anywhere in the UAE. Eat and drink. In different, luxury, hotels. Fine if that’s what floats your boat. No wonder almost everyone here is overweight.

  2. Pleth Smith says:

    Well I think there is so much more to do in Abu Dhabi and Dubai than i.e. in London or Amsterdam. Abu Dhabi also have palaces, culture and museums, but also swimming, beaches, water sports, turbine flying, golf or drive to the oasis town of Al Ain. How about desert safari, desert racing, sailing, explore deserted islands, sand-skiing, scuba diving, canoeing and bird watching.
    Not to mention the Formula One race, Red Bull Airshow and Volvo Ocean Race.
    Ferari World is opening in October 2010.
    And can I add… Abu Dhabi is one of the safest places on earth, you can walk anywhere anytime without being harassed.

  3. Alan Bradley says:

    Mr Pleth Smith – you’re having a laugh aren’t you?!

    OK, so…how many museums are there currently in Abu Dhabi? I can’t think of very many. In fact, I can’t actually think of ONE. And straight away off the top of my head, in London alone, I can think of The Science Museum, The Natural History Museum, The British Museum, The V&A – you what that is right, I mean you have actually been to London haven’t you?

    How about all the music festivals that take place in around the beautiful parks in London: Lovebox, SW4, LED (that’s in Victoria Park, in case you didn’t know)…and that’s just the ones I can think of right now.

    Now let’s look at Abu Dhabi. Yes, there are museums planned, but rather than actually create a unique, new brand of museum for Abu Dhabi – no, they have to build a Guggenheim and a Louvre. They would be already established German and French museums, respectively. Flash spending to achieve a quicker result with no real effort. A trait common in the UAE.

    Ah yes, the beaches. The utterly stagnant, still water beaches. Any hydro-dymanic flow of water that may have once resulted in waves has been completely removed by the obsession of land reclamation. I cite Al Raha Beach Hotel and the Beach Rotana as perfect examples.

    Granted neither London nor Amsterdam actually possess a beach, as such, but frankly, I don’t think the beaches in Abu Dhabi are anything to be proud of.

    What else. Ah yes, the red Bull Air Race. You do know that there’s one in London as well, right..? You did know that..?

    Ferrari World – well, I think we should just see what that’s actually like before we discuss its merits.

    In return, let’s see what else London has to offer…Hmmmm. You know you can take long walks in London don’t you..? You know, like through the heart of the East End, through Limehouse – Narrow Street, the cobbled streets of Wapping where so much history took place. WhiteChapel and so on.

    You do know your history of London, don’t you..?

    As for the younger generation, well, as they can go and see bands play in pubs. Yes, there’s actually a music scene in London. Is there one in Abu Dhabi Mr Pleth Smith? I think not.

    Local sports clubs exist. Take Hampstead for example, they have a full five-team hockey club – as do most districts in London, soccer, rugby, tennis. And even if you don’t want to play – you can go and watch.

    And even if you stayed indoors…the TV is better!

    Dear God…would you like me to go on..?

    I’m not saying there aren’t things to do in Abu Dhabi…I’m saying there’s an infinitely greater amount to do in London. And Amsterdam. And I think you should rethink before you blurt out phrases like that.

  4. Peter says:

    Mr. Smith….thanks for making me laugh this evening.

    I’ve been living in Abu Dhabi for the past 8 years. Just don’t know from where to start trying to reply to your comment. Alan gave good point though.

    I haven’t seen a single museum here, and I can say I know Abu Dhabi from top to bottom. The whole country is simply said, fake…yes, they have money, loads of it. And nice new buildings, shopping malls, hotels…but the place doesn’t have the soul and it never will.
    Comparing Abu Dhabi or Dubai to London, Amsterdam or any other european city is outrageous. These cities have soul, they live 24hrs a day and there are billion things to do there.
    What can you do in Abu Dhabi?
    Desert safari – an overpriced visit do desert.
    Shopping malls – place where locals spend loads of money on things they barely need but buy for show off; place where you can see how some people don’t have manners at all, list is endless.
    Corniche beach….you enter the water and you don’t know if under your feet is sand or mud…mud I would say. At least beaches in Dubai are way better. The only wild beach that had clear water and natural sand got closed.
    Shopping and eating, national sport of locals…highest number of obese people in middle east, highest number of diabetes 2 patients, etc.

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